For some reason, I had a strong hankering to see some fancy architecture. Being too broke for a European trip, I decided to take a weekend jaunt to the Baltimore/DC area.
Around 10:00am, I caught the 3.5 hour Bolt Bus from Manhattan to Baltimore. It’s not much of a scenic trip, taking you mainly through industrial areas of New Jersey. Reminded me of the opening titles for The Sopranos.
When the bus arrived in Baltimore, it was pouring with rain, and I caught an Uber to the main part of town. First thing I wanted to see was the George Peabody Library. In fact, that was the main reason I wanted to visit Baltimore, and you will see why…(‘xcuse the blurriness)
The library was just as amazing in person as promised by the website pictures. Lots of couples get married here, and I can’t think of a better location. There were people like me looking around, and there were also people seriously studying. You aren’t allowed up in the stacks, that’s for staff only. The books on the ground level looked very dry and boring, about British civil law and the like.
Free lamp!
Nearby is the Washington Monument. I was keen to climb up the monument ( 227 steps!) to get a good view of the city. The staff were super friendly and keen to tell me about the monument’s history.
The walk was pretty steep and claustrophobic. At the top, you can see across the entire city from all four directions.
I also visited the Baltimore Cathedral. It is very bright and filled with light. The cathedral has played an important role in American history, including the namesake of the Baltimore Catechism.
Downstairs is the cathedral crypt. I wasn’t sure if I was allowed down here, so I kept my visit brief. It is also a bit spooky down here, not going to lie. I did appreciate that they left the graffiti initials of some of the builders in the cement.
I stayed at the HI Baltimore Hostel. I was a bit apprehensive about staying in a hostel, as I was worried I would be an old lady out of place with a bunch of younger folk.
However, I had to pick the hostel when my original plans fell through, and I couldn’t beat the price for a single room with an ensuite bathroom. Turns out, there were guests of all ages! My room was clean and comfortable and the staff were cool.
After a decent shower and dropping off my stuff, I ventured uptown for an early dinner. I’d read good things about Red Emmas, a bookstore and café. When I arrived (thanks to the free Baltimore bus), there were some interesting characters hanging around the front of the store. I ordered the Banh-Mi sandwich which was quite decent, but not quite as “mind-blowing” as one reviewer had suggested. The lavender lemonade was wonderful!
Since it was still early, I decided to go see a movie at The Charles. I saw the RBG documentary about Ruth Bader Ginsburg. I didn’t know much about her, and came away really impressed with her story. Documentary is well-done, too.
Next morning, I took a long jaunt to the Baltimore harbor area. On the way, I stopped by the Saint Alphonsus Church and Shrine. This church often pops up on “Most Beautiful Churches in the United States” lists. In the foyer, a younger lady in a mantilla was giving me stink eye, so I quickly took my pic of the sanctuary, and moved on. This picture doesn’t really do it justice.
Keen to get out of the downpour, I had breakfast at Ceremony Coffee Roasters. They do a really decent cup of coffee. I ordered the “Amazing Toast,” and it was, indeed, pretty amazing. The toast was sprinkled with something called furikake, “a dry Japanese seasoning.” Hard to explain the taste, though it was quite delicious.
After breakfast, I visited The Walters Museum. I figured it would be about twenty dollars entry fee. But it was free! And I have to say, this museum is superb. It has a fantastic selection of European art, and the building itself is beautiful. There’s a new section dedicated to Arts from Asia, and a kooky room dedicated to “curiosities.”
The Walters Museum is just the right size for a morning visit. Not so large to be overwhelming, but large enough to be satisfied.
It was then time to catch the Amtrak to DC. See you later, Baltimore!
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